How to turn your shirt sleeves into puffy banded sleeves

For the Soda Pop Polo sew-along I decided to create a simple every-day-Princess look. Because let's be clear, I love princess dresses, but they may not be so practical for the playground.

Using the Soda Pop Polo Shirt PDF Pattern, I created the cute little tunic above; I simply cut a portion off the length of the shirt and added a gathered skirt to it with a bias tape trim.
The ruffle collar is already part of the pattern, so that one was easy. However, the sleeves took some more time.

Puffy sleeves are not difficult and you can pretty much change any shirt sleeve into a puffy sleeve. This tutorial shows you how to create puffy sleeves that work for pattern pieces that are cut on the fold. Although it's possible to turn sleeves that are not cut on the fold into puffy sleeves too, we'll save that tutorial for another time.

First, you will want to use a short sleeve pattern piece, and you'll want to shorten the bottom edge of the pattern piece by quite a bit. The best way to go about this is measuring your child from shoulder to where you want the sleeve to approximately hit, and add 3/8" seam allowance to that measurement. Hemming allowance is not needed as the sleeve will be bound and not hemmed.

Now, as per the instructions, you would be placing the long, straight edge on the fold, but we're not going to do that.

Instead, we're going to slide that edge quite a bit away from the fabric fold. The amount you're sliding your pattern piece away from the fold will determine how puffy your sleeve is, so for super puffy sleeves you may want to slide your piece away as much as 5 inches, or perhaps even more (make a test sleeve if you're not sure!).
For this shirt, I've placed my pattern piece approximately 2 inches away from the fold.

Now, cut around the sleeve pattern piece as shown in the picture below; you'll curve around the top and bottom of the sleeve piece approximately 3/8" to allow for some gathering in the sleeve and sleeve head. Make sure you keep the underarm seam intact; don't curve around that edge.

Now, use the sleeve you just cut as a template to cut the other sleeve.

Since I wanted a Snow White tunic, I added very simple strips of knit fabric to the sleeves. I wanted a playful and fun look, not a sharp costume look, so I cut red knit strips without measuring, just eyeballing the width.
I attached them right onto the sleeves (right side of the strips is up, and the right side of the sleeve is up) with a simple zigzag stitch.
I did not measure where to exactly place my strips as I wanted a loose look for the sleeves.

Now we'll need to cut the band for our sleeves. I measured around my daughter's arm for this and added 1/2" - for seam allowance and a little bit ease. Make sure you cut the band four times as wide as you want it to be, as it will be sewn bias-tape style.
Trim the edges of the strips to fit the sleeves.

My strip for the band was 3.25 inches wide.


Fold it in half along the length and give it a good press. Unfold; you have now created a crease.

 Using the crease as a guideline, fold in the two raw edges towards the crease. Give it a good press.

Fold in half along the length again, enclosing the raw long edges in the process. Give it a good press.

 Alright, time to gather our sleeve bottom and add that band to it.
Use a gathering stitch along the bottom edge of the sleeve and gather the fabric by pulling on the bobbin threads until the sleeve bottom is approximately the same width as the band.

Depending on how much you placed your pattern piece away from the fold, you will have to gather more or less to meet the width of the sleeve band. Your sleeve may look a bit different than mine.

Fully unfold the sleeve band, and align the raw edge of the sleeve band with its right side against the wrong side of the gathered sleeve.
Pin in place and sew together along the crease line, closest to the raw edge.

Flip the band over to the right side of the sleeve and fold it back into the premade folds. You are enclosing the raw edge of the sleeve in the sleeve band.

Pin in place, make sure you cover up the previously made stitching, and sew close to the folded edge. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Fancy sleeves!

Now we're ready to start setting in the sleeves, but first: it's important that puffy sleeves are set atop a narrower shoulder. Otherwise they will 'hang' off the shoulder instead of stand up on that shoulder perky and proud.
Because a polo shirt pattern, which I used for this tunic, has traditionally wider shoulders than say, a regular fitted shirt, I trimmed off about 1" at the shoulder, and curved back out to the underarm.

Depending on the shirt pattern you're using, you may not need to trim the shoulder.

We'll now need to gather the sleeve head (that's the top of the sleeve) to make it fit into the armhole. This will add the puff to your sleeve!
As you can see, at this point it's still much too big to fit in.

Use a gathering stitch along the sleeve head and, pulling on the bobbin threads, move your fabric so it gathers the sleeve to fit approximately into the armhole.

That's it! You can now sew your sleeve into the armhole as you would do with a regular sleeve, and finish your shirt as instructed.
You will not need to hem your sleeve after you've set it in.



Enjoy!

The Red Carpet Awards!

The Red Carpet Awards for PDF Design are here, and guess what?! Candy Castle Patterns has been nominated! These are like the Oscars for PDF Designers, so I'm humbled & honored to receive the nomination!

Will you come over to vote in the ballot too? There are many prizes (and I mean, LOADS!) to win, besides of course, making a designer really happy.
Make sure you share your opinion by voting and make it count!

Click the button below to go to the ballo.
After filling out the ballot, make sure you come back here to join the give-away below! Crazy prizes, folks!

Rules:

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• Giveaway ends 3/8 at midnight EST
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• To find the other Rafflecopter give-aways, go here. 

So jump in - vote for your favorites, like some new Designers on FaceBook, and Enter to win some fabulous prizes!a Rafflecopter giveaway

 

Pricing your handmade (Candy Castle) garments

This is not an easy subject; the fact that we get so many questions in our Candy CastlePatterns Sewing Group about how to price your handmade garment, proves that. 

However, if you own a boutique, it’s very easy to sell yourself, your time, your skill and your garment short by underpricing.

It’s easy to sell yourself short when you are just starting out with your boutique, because you really want to start selling and building your customer base, but you may not be taking many things into account that you really shouldn’t forget about.

Yet, overpricing would mean, not selling anything at all, so how to find the golden middle between those?

Let’s see what makes a fair price – and we’re doing this the succesful business way. So, if you’re making something for your sister, you may want to price a bit differently – this pricing method builds solid businesses.

So, you’ve just got a customer email you, that wants a Peppermint Swirl dress in a size 2y. That’s great, you’re thrilled! You grab your trusty Pricing Formula and get busy calculating.

P = MC + (HW*TS) + CG + WP + OH

 

 Say what?

Let’s break that up.

The P in the above formula is what we want to find out: the Price.

MC are your material costs. Now, it would be easy to just buy your fabric and call the total of that your material cost, but we’ve got to dig a little deeper.
You bought your fabric, and for the size 2y, you bought 4 yards in total for $10.00 a yard. Let’s write that down on our material list:

• Fabric    $ 40.00

However, you also had to get two spools of matching thread at 3 dollar a spool, and three adorable buttons at a dollar each. Also, you had to get three packages of bias tape, because your customer wants the Crazy Peppermint Swirl Volume.  Let’s add those to the list too.

• Fabric                  $ 40.00
• Thread                 $  6.00
• Buttons                 $  3.00
• 3 x Bias Tape       $  7.50

Great, that’s it, right! … Only it’s not.
You bought the Peppermint Swirl Dress pattern in our shop for $ 10.00. Let’s say you think you end up making 10 dresses to sell in your boutique. So that makes the pattern cost for this dress 10 / 10 = $ 1 dollar.

Add it to the list!

• Fabric                  $ 40.00
• Thread                 $  6.00
• Buttons                $  3.00
• 3 x Bias Tape       $  7.50
• Pattern                $  1.00

There we are, right? Oh, we still need to print that pattern, and cartridges are crazy expensive. Let’s add printing costs to that, for your ink and paper. No one prints for free! Unless you print at work secretly.

• Fabric                    $ 40.00
• Thread                   $  6.00
• Buttons                  $  3.00
• 3 x Bias Tape         $  7.50
• Pattern                   $  1.00
• Printing                 $  1.50

Now, that’s more like it. See, if you had only calculated your fabric, you would have been selling yourself short already!

We now know MC = $ 59.00

Let’s get to the next part in our formula:  

P = 59 + (HW*TS) + CG + OH + W

The (HW*TS). 

HW stands for ‘Hourly Wage’ and TS stands for Time Spent.

These are both super variable, and that’s what makes pricing difficult. What do you pay yourself? What is your time worth, spent sewing for someone else, instead of sewing for your own kids, or going to the park with your kids?

This is a rather difficult question, and it’s something you have to decide for yourself. Please, please be fair to yourself.

Let’s say you think an hourly wage of $ 10.00 is a fair price. Personally, I think that’s rather cheap for someone as skilled and creative as you are, but we’re just grabbing a number here!

Time Spent: I recommend making a Peppermint Swirl (or whichever dress/garment you are currently using this formula for) for yourself/your own kids/a present for someone to see how long it takes you (and seriously, why wouldn’t you! I think every girl in the world should have a Peppermint Swirl dress at least once in her life, and experience the Power of the Twirl!)

The average time it takes to sew a Peppermint Swirl is 4 hours including cutting, so let’s keep to that.

So that’s it, right, we now know our Time Spent? NO! We don’t! This is tricky, so please pay attention.

You went to the store to get this lady her fabric. 

Maybe you had to go there anyways, and you only spent 30 minutes extra to pick out her fabric. Or maybe you ordered online and that only took you 30 minutes to pick out fabric, order and pay. So add those 30 minutes to your Time Spent.

And more importantly – I feel this is what most boutique owners who work with custom creations struggle with – you spent a long time emailing back and forth with your customer, showing her options, asking her measurements, showing her some fabric combinations, and some more fabric combinations, and answered her questions about your turn-around time, and so on…

It’s a bit harsh, and probably unfair, to add 2 or 3 hours of working time to your Time Spent for every ‘difficult customer’. On the other hand, you really should calculate this time into your price. After all, it’s time spent behind your computer you could have otherwise been baking cupcakes with your kids or ironing laundry (HA! HA! HA! Who does that!?).

Let’s say an easy customer just takes you 30 minutes to email back and forth with fabric suggestions and measurements, and a difficult one takes you 1.5 hours. We’ll just take an average of that to add to your price: an hour of communication with your customer, for a grand total of 5 hours Time Spent to complete this entire dress.

If you create more of these dresses and you get faster as you go, you can always kick the price back a nudge.

So our (HW*TS) = Hourly Wage * Time Spent = 5*10 = 50.

Let’s get to the next part of our formula!

P = 59 + 50 + CG + WP + OH

CG stands for Complimentary Gift.

Seriously? Yes! 

This is just optional, but highly recommended. For something so small, it's an amazingly strong marketing tool. 

 It’s the ‘little bit extra’ that was unexpected but so appreciated. It’s a little surprise for your customer that makes them order again another time. It doesn’t need to be something big or time-consuming; often, it’s the little things that really matter. Of course, you’re going to calculate that into the price. 

I liked to use a small scrap of fabric (at no additional costs, because otherwise, I would have thrown it out) and sew a quick bow out of it (like the one in the Princess pattern!) and hot glue it onto a clippie.

The clippie only cost me 0.50 cents and sewing the bow and glueing it together perhaps 15 minutes, so with our time added to that, the Complimentary Gift is in this case 3 dollar.

Your customer will not notice this additional cost (because we are certainly not sharing this formula with our customers, are we!?), but they will absolutely love you for it. You don't need to add a clippie of course, you can add anything to it, a little bracelet or some sweets..

So our CG = $ 3.00

 

Let’s move on!

P = 59 + 50 + 3 + WP + OH

WP = Wrapping & Packaging.

You want your customer to receive something special and handmade, a gift she treated herself (i.e. her child/someone else) to, and it has to look special. Not wrapped in yesterday’s newspaper.

It’s not just the wrapper though. It’s also about adding a handwritten thank you card to it (to show your appreciation), not on the back of the sushi takeaway menu, but on some pretty stationary.

It’s your business card that you pop in that box.

It’s the cute ribbon you tie around the garment.

It’s the awesome moustache thank you-stamp you stamp on the box.

Well, whatever you use to wrap your garment to reflect how awesome your product is, this is your WP cost.

Let’s say you added a ribbon, a handwritten thank you card and a business card; the total cost about $ 1.50.  

We now know:

P = 59 + 50 + 3 + 1.50 + OH

OH = Overhead

Overhead is basically every cost you have over the long term, not specifically for this dress, but for having a business overall; the costs of keeping your website up to date, listing your items on Etsy, the power for your sewing machine and your iron, photographing your items, your gas to drive to the fabric shop, doing research for new patterns; well, you name it.

OH is a percentage. Again, this is a bit personal, but I know most successful boutiques like to add 10% overhead.

There we go:

The total we had is = 59 + 50 + 3 + 1.50 = 113.50

Add 10% to that: 113.50 * 1.10 = $ 124.85.

We’ll round it up to $125.00 or $130.00 to have a nice round number to quote, and there you have it.

Of course, the Peppermint Swirl dress we used in this example is a very elaborate, rather fabric-heavy dress, but this formula works for every garment you want to sell. 

For different sizes, you will use different materials, so you will want to quote your customer a different price for every different size. 

I hope this article has been useful to you. Pricing is a very personal matter, so please use your own ideas and amounts to come to a price that is a perfect match for both you, your time and your business.

Until the next time!

Adding piping to your Bubblegum (Swing) Dress

 A Bubblegum Swing Christmas Dress!

Have you started Christmas sewing yet? I hadn't, but as Kristen asked a question about adding piping to the bodice of the Bubblegum dress on the Candy Castle Pattern Group, it got me thinking about Christmas and how I really, really wanted to make another Bubblegum Swing Dress and add piping, too... I had ordered this hi-la-ri-ous Christmas doggy fabric at Skye Reves Fabric weeks ago, intended for a sweet outfit, but I had no red polkadot fabric left over, which I was certain was needed to match with this print.

I found some leftover pale green polkadot fabric and figured it would suffice, and I think it looks superb! Less flashy than it would have probably been with red, don't you think? It looks like a very modest Christmas dress, that doesn't yell "HO HO HO HO HO HO HO HO!!!!!" through the room.

So, two birds, one stone: I started Christmas sewing, and also took pictures to make a tutorial on how to add piping. You can use this method on both the regular Bubblegum dress as the Swing version. Let's get to work, shall we?

Firstly, if you do not own the Bubblegum Dress PDF pattern yet, you can find it here. To create the party dress version of this dress, with a full, gathered skirt, as I did for this dress, you'll also need the Swing Dress add-on, found here.

Now, let's work all the way up to step 29 of the Bubblegum Dress pattern, and if you're making the the Swing Version, you will sew up until step 11.
You have a bodice, and a skirt, whether it's a gathered skirt or an A-line skirt.

I have used my ruffler foot to gather my skirt, so neat!

 

As you can see, the piping has a raw edge, and a finished edge, that has a cord within. I've used silver piping (my own silver lining!) for this dress, as red would have probably 'broken up' the dress too much to my liking.

The raw edge of the piping will be hidden within the seams when we are done; only the finished edge will show.

Starting at the very edge of the bodice, pin the piping all the way around the bottom edge. You will align the raw edges of the piping and the bodice.

Let's see that in close-up.

As you can see, the raw edges of the piping meet the raw edges of the bodice, We will keep pinning until the whole bottom edge of our bodice has piping pinned to it.

Now we need to stitch the piping in place, not only to keep it where it should be and not have it slip out under your presser foot when we attach the skirt, but also to make a stitching line for guidance.
You can use a cording foot if you have one, but a zipper foot works just as well.
If you have neither, you can use your regular presser foot too, but it requires a bit of maneuvering, so make sure you go slowly.

The zipper foot is shown in the picture above. As you can see, the foot will allow you to get your needle really close to the piping, which is exactly what we want!

And in this picture, you can see that you can, if needed, use your regular foot as well, as long as you make sure that you stitch right next to the cord of the piping. Go slowly and maneuver the fabric when you need to; it will be fine, too!

Stitch the piping in place along the whole bottom edge of the bodice. Make sure you stitch as close to the cord as possible (the red line in the pictures indicates how close you need to be; your needle really has to hug the cord inside the piping!).

The bodice now looks like this.

If you flip over your bodice to the wrong side, do you see your line of stitching there? That will be your guideline when we sew the skirt to the bodice.

Now, we will pin the skirt to the bodice as per the pattern's instructions; there is no difference, besides that now, your piping is sandwiched in between the layers, and the piping's raw edges are aligned with the skirt's raw edges, too.

Still using your zipper foot, sew right over the line of stitching (your "guideline", remember?) to attach the skirt to the bodice.

When you have attached the whole skirt, whether it's the A-line skirt or the gathered skirt, flip your dress over and admire your beautiful piping, sewn in the traditional way!
If you notice any parts where you haven't quite sewn close enough to the cord, just go back over them and stitch a closer line.

Don't forget to finish the seam allowance by zigzagging or carefully serging! It would really be no fun after all this work to have your piping stuck in your serger seam!

Return to your pattern and catch up with step 32 of the Bubblegum Dress pattern! Enjoy and add piping to everything!